Finland drives EU breakthrough in sustainable skincare innovation

A major EU-funded research initiative led by VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland has identified 25 new plant-based ingredients with verified anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing effects – setting the stage for the next generation of sustainable skincare.

“For the first time, we are building a pipeline of ingredients that combine scientifically proven skin benefits with responsible, scalable production,” said Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey, coordinator of the InnCoCells project at VTT. “This reflects what consumers and the beauty industry are actively seeking.”

Part of the Horizon 2020 programme, the 4.5-year InnCoCells project brought together 17 organisations across 11 European countries to radically rethink how cosmetic ingredients are sourced and developed.

Rather than focusing on single compounds, the team screened over 100 plant extracts against 20 skin biomarkers – selecting around 25 for their strong performance and sustainability profile.

Cell cultures with clinical promise

Among the standout discoveries were cell cultures from Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvygrass), Capsicum chinense (tropical pepper) and hairy roots of Ocimum basilicum (basil).

C. danica topped efficacy tests, combining anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing and antimicrobial effects. C. chinense extracts inhibited MRSA and protected skin from stress without causing irritation. Basil hairy root extracts showed targeted anti-ageing activity while preserving skin hydration.

All selected extracts can be produced using sustainable methods — such as bioreactors, greenhouses or upcycled agricultural side-streams — validated through life cycle and techno-economic analysis.

“Collaborating through InnCoCells gave us access to cutting-edge plant research,” Dr Christophe Carola from MERCK, a project partner, noted. “The extracts now in development show real promise as cosmetic ingredients.”